True Grit
When I told people I would be traveling to Brazil on my own, the first thing out of everyone’s mouth was, “BE CAREFUL!” I understood why this was so. They cared for me and my safety. But I also know it is because many are scared of the unknown. I was this way before I came here. All I knew was that of which I had heard from people or seen in movies, such as City of God. I was scared to even step outside my door when I got here a week ago, scared to even speak a word to anyone. In fact, so many people told me that is so dangerous here that I almost decided to not come at all! And boy would I have missed an experience of a lifetime! And this next part is a testament to that indeed!
After my first Samba lesson yesterday, I was feeling confident in myself and went to a little cafeteria in my neighborhood. I was sitting by myself, two Brazilian women were sitting next to me. I was taking in the sights and sounds of the neighborhood, while sipping on my cappuccino com chocolate–Yes, it is amazing! If you’re wondering– I was minding my own business, really, “trying” to blend in, when two gents that were sitting beside me asked where I was from in English. Man, they blew my cover! (To be honest, not really, it’s very obvious I don’t know what I’m doing in Rio!) But I didn’t want to be rude so I answered, America. Now, I know it sounds stupid because I am in America, South that is, but that’s how you answer in Portuguese, “Sou Americana.” So they asked North or South, and I sheepishly said North, feeling a little stupid with my answer. But they didn’t seem offended. We exchanged pleasantries and I found out that they too were going to the same Samba club my instructor had said he was going to that night. Well now, I had to go! Fate couldn’t have been more blatant! We said our goodbyes and that we would for sure meet up later.
Now the thing is, I don’t have anyone to go out with at night or to travel to the destination with. So getting to this Samba club was going to take some true grit on my part to muster up enough gumption to go out alone.
I definitely had my reservations about going out alone at night. I was told to always take a taxi because it is not safe to even walk at night by yourself! Some how I had to figure out how to get from my house up on the hill to the street down below where the taxis reside. So I got ready, took a deep breath and climbed the long stairway up into the night.
No one was really on the street, which put me even more on edge. I didn’t quite know how to take a taxi or where to even catch one, so I just kept walking. I have learned that when in doubt follow what the locals do. I am very good at being observant and luckily a couple that had crossed the street were in search of a taxi as well! So I followed them. I found out there was a taxi pick up at the bottom of my street! I climbed in, told the cab driver I did not speak much Portuguese in my very limited knowledge of the language, handed him a piece of paper with the street address and we were off!
Quickly we pulled up to a curb and my destination. He pointed in the direction I was to go, I paid and got out. I really didn’t know what I was doing. I knew the address, but I didn’t know if my two German friends were actually going to be there or if I would even be able to find my Samba teacher. But I just did it because I wanted to and felt like if I didn’t I would miss out on a night to remember!
Enter the Rio Scenarium. This is one of Lapa’s well known and touristy Samba nightspots. The place is large, beautiful, and features three, yes you read that right, three floors, all with something happening on each. According to my guidebook, this place pioneered Lapa’s Samba renaissance. It is a tourist hotspot but many cariocas–people from Rio de Janeiro–come to have a fun night out as well!
I didn’t quit know what I was getting myself into, which I’m learning happens a lot to me when I am traveling. How was I ever supposed to find any of the people I was supposed to meet there? There were so many people, live music, dancing, drumming–all overwhelming my senses. One thing I have learned is that if you are Brazilian, you know your samba music! And by saying you know it, you sing along to it almost screaming every word out loud. So it can be a little intimidating to say the least. When all around you people are singing and dancing and you are just trying to get through the crowd to the other side of the room to see if there is any sign of anyone you knew. Now back in the States I would never go out by myself without my girls, but here in Rio I don’t have that luxury, so I made do. I told myself if I didn’t find my friends in 20 minutes, I would claim defeat and go home. As I said this to myself, what to my surprise my two German friends appeared! My heart almost jumped out of my chest!
Now, I really wasn’t expecting that my first friends in Rio would be from Germany, nor did I expect them to be two middle aged men. But boy was I so glad to see them, and I breathed a sigh of relief as they said, “Ah, Katy!”
If you know anything about Germans it should be this, they are extremely intelligent. I have never met one that doesn’t speak at least 3, 4, or 5 languages and Yintz and Lutz were no different. Yintz is living in Sao Paolo. He has been working there for 2 years now and speaks fluent Portuguese, as well as English, Spanish, Russian, and his native tongue, German, of course. Lutz is a friend visiting him for 2 weeks and speaks fluent English, Russian, Spanish, and French, I believe. The other thing you should know about Germans is they definitely know how to drink! This whiskey girl could not keep up with them and I cut myself off after 2 drinks. (I know that doesn’t sound like a lot, but Brazilians also know how to drink, and make their drinks extremely strong!)
So why all the background on Yintz and Lutz? Well this is when I learned I had to let go and just do it. I don’t know how many friends they made by just talking and starting up conversations. We met so many Brazilians, a Russian girl, a Venezuelan guy; people from everywhere! Putting my little Spanish and even less Portuguese to shame! I am always amazed when I travel at how many people from other countries know English at the very least, if not two or three other languages.
At this point I spotted my Samba instructor, Helio, and he asked me to dance what is called the Forro. According to Helio, this dance was invented when the Europeans came to Brazil and held dances in the streets of Rio de Janeiro saying they were “For All” but the Brazilians didn’t understand them completely and thought they were saying “Forro.” Hence, the now dance popular in many night clubs across Brazil. I am not sure if this is completely true because Helio was smiling and winking at me the entire time he was telling the story. But one thing I do know is I love this dance! It is very close, which he told another story as to why this is so; something about vampires. But putting that all aside, it is amazing dancing with someone who knows how to lead you and makes you feel so accomplished after just one lesson!
I ended the night with my two German friends on a corner street in Santa Teresa, having a beer and a hot dog from one of the street vendors. We exchanged emails and expressed our hopes to see each other again. I walked down the stairs to my room with a huge smile on my face. I did it! I have true grit! I made what seemed so impossible a week ago, possible. And most importantly, learned valuable lessons along the way.
Do not take what others say about a place to heart if they have never been there themselves, like you, they know nothing but only what they have heard and seen. Of course, heed the warnings as you would in any big city in your home country or abroad. But as someone once told me two things are true about a country. First, it is not the country that is bad but the people who are. And second, in regards to those “bad people,” it is only about two percent that are; while the other 98 percent are the most kind, welcoming, warmhearted people you will ever meet!
I cringe at the thought that I may never have known Brazil if I would have listened to the warnings and dangers people told me I would face while traveling here alone. True, it has only been a week and I do have much more to experience, but I am looking forward to it. I am excited by who I may meet next and what adventure lies around the corner.
And the last, maybe most important lesson I have learned is this; open yourself up to learn and make mistakes. As my new German friend, Lutz told me, when it comes to traveling and being social, “You just have to!”
If you are ever in Rio de Janeiro and want to learn how to Samba or Forro, do not hesitate to contact Helio Ricardo! He is an amazing instructor, as well as dancer! He was even able to teach this gringa how to Samba! Plus it’s just something you have to do! It’s all about the experience!